Climber buried by falling snow
By Walt Walker
For the second
month in a row, the unit has been activated, for
a mission on Saturday evening of a training
weekend. Once again we were some distance from
the roadhead. (Ed. note: The Board of Directors
is studying the problem of good training vs. good
response lime.) In fact we were in another
county. (See Training write-up.) We had made
plans just in case a mission did occur while we
were training. A number of the members had
brought their pagers along, so we could rotate
usage due to ni-cad battery voltage life. We had
also carried in a field antenna to use with the
pagers.
When the pager
'beeeeped' Saturday evening, we disconnected it
from the antenna and connected a team HandiTalkie
in its place. RMRU coordinator, Al Andrews, had
contacted the Sierra Madre Search & Rescue
Team and asked them to broadcast a message to us.
In just a few minutes after the pager call, our
radio came to life. Sierra Madre has a
transmitter on Mt. Wilson and by using it, they
advised us that we were needed for a rescue. They
also sent a mobile unit into the Ontario area and
it remained in contact with us as we hiked out.
The message
was passed to the rest of the team members and
everyone started packing. In less than 20 minutes
we were headed downwards toward the roadhead. I
had started my wrist chronograph when we started
packing and stopped it when we arrived at the
cars, two hours and four minutes had elapsed. We
drove to the nearest phone and called Al for more
details. He related that a man had been injured
Saturday morning at the 6,500 foot level of the
North Face. We advised him that we would drive to
the Snowcreek community and start the mission at
five Sunday morning. (Ed. note: It would have
taken longer to climb up, than wait for the
helicopter. Plus it would have been very hard to
carry all the necessary equipment.) He telephoned
the information to the Banning station of the
Riverside County Sheriff's Department.
Shortly after
5:00 a.m. Sunday we gathered at the 'Snowcreek
roadhead heliport'. Final plans were discussed
and just after 6:00 a.m. Don Landells arrived in
his jet Ranger helicopter. Pete Carlson and I
were ready to go and we climbed aboard. I briefed
Don on the situation and we lifted off. In just a
few minutes we were in the shadows and the
mission would be almost completed before we were
again to be in the sun.
Right at the
6,500 foot level we spotted a man waving and also
another person in a sleeping bag. Don tried a one
runner touch-down but the angle of the slope was
to great for clearance of the main rotor blades.
He flew up the canyon another 300 feet and found
a spot where he could touch down. Pete and I
carefully climbed out onto the hard snow. Don
lifted off and we started down the slope with our
ice axes in hand. We heard a familiar noise and
looked back only to see a number of football
sized rocks tumbling down the steep slope. The
sun was already warming the rocks and snow above
us. My hardhat, all of a sudden, felt good!
When we got to
the two climbers they related what had happened.
They had started climbing on Friday and had
reached the area, where we now were, that
evening. They had camped right at the canyon wall
on a small flat area of the snow. At about 4:00
a.m. Saturday morning they were awakened by a
muff sound and looked up just in time to see
blocks of snow tumbling down at them. The injured
man had been struck by a large block and then
literally buried. His partner had dug him out and
gave what aid he could. At about 11:00 a.m. two
other climbers happened upon them and said they
would continue on up the face and go for help.
The injured man was in good spirits
considering what he had gone through. My
examination of him led me to believe that he had
fractured a number of ribs and possibly his right
hip. I was also concerned that he might have some
internal injuries as well. Using the HandiTalkie,
I had brought in, base was advised of the
situation and the equipment that would be needed
for the evacuation.
In four more
trips back up the canyon, Don flew in the
necessary equipment, a Stokes litter, snow
pickets and flukes (to be used as anchors),
numerous ropes and the following team members:
Tom Aldrich, Don Chambers, Jim Fairchild, Hal
Fulkman, Jim Garvey, Ed Hill, Rick Pohlers and
Larry Roland.
While some of
us carefully put the injured man into the litter,
others were setting up the anchors. The teamwork
demonstrated was tremendous, our long hours of
training and working together really showed. We
were now almost ready to move the injured climber
up the steep slope. While we had been talking
back and forth on the radio about what equipment
was needed, Don had made a suggestion as to how
we could move the litter up the slope.
What was
decided upon and used that day was a first for
RMRU, and quite possibly a first in mountain
rescue. Don had suggested, that instead of using
our normal mechanical advantage system, that he
use the helicopter to pull the litter up the
slope. Two 300 foot ropes were tied to the
litter, one would be used as a safety belay and
the other would be attached to the helicopter.
The team members who had set up the anchors,
attached the belay rope to their system and we
radioed Don that we were ready.
We picked up
the litter, and slowly moved the litter towards
the center of the Slope, all the time thinking
about the rocks that occasionally came thundering
down. Ed Hill moved even further out as Don
neared our location. Don hovered and Ed attached
the second 300 foot rope to the sling hanging
down from the bird. Slowly Don moved up the slope
and the slack in the rope was gradually taken up.
To a casual observer, and there
weren't any around, I'm sure what happened next
would have appeared rather easy. Don Chambers and
I were at the head of the litter, Tom Aldrich and
Hal Fulkman were at the foot. We carried the
litter, while Don's helicopter pulled. Sounds
simple, however helicopter's don't run out of
oxygen as fast as us frail humans do. The four of
us were gasping for air as we completed the 300
feet non-stop! (After the mission we all agreed
that we could not have gone another 20 feet.) We
moved the litter over to a platform that had been
cut into the snow slope and waited a few seconds
for Don to fly back downhill.
Don put the
right runner down on the slope and I climbed into
the back of the bird. The rest of the team slowly
slid the litter into the bird and I secured it
with the seat belts. Don lifted off and we were
on our way to Desert Hospital in Palm Springs.
Kevin Walker had been sent to the hospital
previously and he was waiting for the bird as it
landed on the lawn just outside the Emergency
Room entrance. We off loaded the litter onto a
waiting gurney and Don took off. He headed back
towards the mountain to move the other members
and equipment back to base.
When everyone
had been flown off the mountain, and Kevin and I
had returned to base, we held a critique of the
mission. As usual we discussed the things we
would do differently the next time, but all in
all, it had been a good mission. We learned the
next day that the injured man had 14 fractured
ribs and considerable internal tissue damage.
There were a
number of RMRU members whose names have not been
mentioned. And I regret I cannot recall all their
names. They had all remained in base, ready to go
if more help had been needed on the mountain.
Guess what?
"I'm
proud to be a member of RMRU".
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